3/20/2024 0 Comments 1961 thunderbird radiatorMy radiator guy explained to me that using a lower temp T-stat on our cars is a good idea as it encourages more flow through the radiator. Definitely cheaper than an electric fan setup. You'll also need to replace the belt that drives the old pulley as it'll probably need to be longer depending on how much bigger a pulley you use but it would seem this may be a fairly inexpensive experiment that could solve your problem if you can find a good used larger diameter pulley that will mount. Have you thought about replacing the fan pulley for a larger one? You may lose a few hp but you will spin the fan faster and pull more cfm through the 3 row radiator. Once I run this a while I probably will move on to adding a pusher fan.ībogue wrote:Regarding placement of temperature switches for cooling fans, I have come up with 2 solutions for my 61. For a modified engine like mine, a modified way to handle vacuum advance may be helpful. Still in trial mode but another tool to work with. Right away I noticed the engine ran cooler at idle. Supposedly, there should be some additional vacuum as well but for me it was only an inch, if that. This now gives me 13 + 10 = 23 degrees of timing at idle which helps the engine run cooler, the primary reason I am trying this. Not to ruffle any feathers, I decided to try running my advance from manifold vacuum. Warning: this is a little controversial and some are pretty opinionated. Then I read about using manifold vs ported vacuum for the vacuum advance. This helps increase timing under light load (cruising) conditions for economy but goes away as soon as you jump on the throttle. I also read about tweaking the vacuum advance so it doesn't come in before 10" of vacuum and max's out at about 10 degrees of advance. Mid-30's supposedly is good but some go even higher. With my initial now of 13 this gives me a total of 33. It came in a little late so I swapped out one of the springs in the distributor for a lighter one so it now comes in just before 2500 rpms. After discovering my vacuum advance was leaking and some of my overheating was coming from the resultant lack of advance and lean mixture, I then got into total timing and distributor recurving, discovering that my particular distributor centrifugal advance could add 20 degrees to whatever was the initial timing. I could get another one of these, drill and tap the sensor hole to 3/8 FNPT and install a threaded type fan switch in this "extra" heater hose.Īs I continue on my quest to cure my overheating issues, I ran across something that may be helpful and of interest to you. The "extra" heater hose is used as a convenient spot for my aftermarket Autometer electrical temp sensor hose fitting. I went with a 61-ish PCV system but left the heater hoses in place like the 62-and-later Birds, routing the "extra" heater hose around the carb and then connecting to the 62-and-later Y-fitting for routing back to the water pump. I abandoned this when I discovered there are some differences in the pre-62 manifold dimensions such that I had insufficient hood clearance. During my engine reinstallation after rebuild I installed a 3-way tee in the manifold where the outlet heater hose connects in order to install a 62-and-later carburetor spacer with PCV connection. (2) Use an Auto Meter 2281 Heater Hose Adapter drilled and tapped for a threaded fan switch. Lots of people seem to do this with no mention of harm to the radiator. Regarding placement of temperature switches for cooling fans, I have come up with 2 solutions for my 61. I've seen some cut and paste solutions that actually don't look too bad. Something simple and gracefully implemented might serve me well. I've been considering some form of heat extraction for the hood, it really does get very hot underneath. I've got an external trans cooler mounted up front for my C6, but don't see that being relocated anytime soon. Since I live in a very mild weather zone, im going to test the zero antifreeze and water wetter trick bump my rad cap up to 16psi see what happens, Got nothing to lose, but will probably invest in a puller fan & shroud along with an alternator conversion to buffer added current draw I like the Cooling Components offering you mentioned, looks like it will tuck in there nicely with full shrouding. As it is, It simply breaks through the cooling capacity of the system and takes free-flight. Dunno, maybe edelbrock or another makes something with higher volume or rate. I'm running a rebuilt oem replacement., nothing fancy, but am starting to point fingers in frustration. Not really sure what the root cause is, but figure it just wants more airflow when sitting idle, at lights or in traffic unless the water pump itself is anemic or something. I'm struggling with effectively the same issue on my '61 build.
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